Queens Head - Carte

Askham Hall

➤ Askham Hall, CA10 2PF, Eden, United Kingdom

Carte • Coffee • Dining • British • European

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"A property has stood on this site since the 13th century, with much of the present building being built in the late 1580s. It came into the possession of the Earls of Lonsdale in the 1830s and was the home of the 7th Earl until his death in 2006. It remained in the ownership of his widow who oversaw its conversion to boutique hotel and restaurant. I mention the history only because the whole ambiance of the public space shouts it at you – from the heraldic symbols on the walls to the shabby (not “shabby chic” condition of the furnishings in the lounge. You would never be in any doubt that you were having dinner in a stately home., even though the restaurant space feels quite modern, with a large window between kitchen and dining room. That means you can watch the chefs at work when conversation flags (as it almost certainly will over the coming hours . Unsurprisingly for a Michelin starred restaurant, food is by way of a no choice, six course, tasting menu. Be prepared for this to take a good three hours, with aperitifs and coffee – there can be long gaps between courses. The three front of house staff were very much on the ball. In particular the young female sommelier, starting out on her career, was first rate – knowledgeable and engaging. There were a couple of single bit canapes, served with the aperitif but, to be honest, I can’t recall what they were. Once in the dining room, bread was served quickly. A housemade sourdough pain de campagne, with organic butter. It was delicious and not a crumb was left – not least because it was all we got to eat for quite a while. The first course may, possibly, have been the best thing I ate all evening. It was their take on lobster thermidor. Bits of lobster, soft leeks, dice of crisp apple, the freshness of lovage and a cheese topping using Montgomery cheddar. You might have thought that using such a mature cheese would overpower the more delicate flavours but it stayed just about on the right side. The restaurant makes a great play on the provenance of the food. Much of the fruit and vegetables come from their own kitchen garden and some of the meats from their own farm. So, the garden provided a salad – Nicola potatoes, served warm, pickled beetroot, baby carrots, confit tomatoes and leaves, with dots of sheep’s curd acting as a dressing. A fish course next. It’s halibut from a fish farm in Scotland – if ever you come across halibut on a menu these days, it’s pretty much guaranteed to come from the farm on the Isle of Gigha. It’s perfectly cooked and comes with oyster mushrooms, greens, fennel and a Morecambe Bay shrimp sauce. Then the only dish of the evening which failed to please us. Rough Fell lamb is breed native to Cumbria but, disappointingly, it was chewy and just not very nice – much of it was left. A real pity, as the accompaniments of tomato, courgette, crispy potato and tarragon flavoured sauce, were all spot on. We were asked how we found it and told them (that brought an apology and a subsequent adjustment to the bill . Pre-dessert was excellent. Sweet cicely and cucumber, with crème fraiche and the only real sweetness coming from shards of caramelised white chocolate. The dessert plate that followed was also not too sweet – berries, lemon verbena cream, a sharpness from elderflower vinegar, topped with a macaroon, with it all surrounded by a puddle of strawberry “soup”. We finished a long evening with coffee and good petit fours – chocolate bon-bon, pate de fruit (that’s posh jelly to you and me and a small cube of fudge."

1863 With Rooms

➤ Elm House, High St, Barton, United Kingdom, CA10 2NH

Carte • Coffee • British • Ice Cream • Breakfast

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"Renowned for its vertiginous landscape and breathtaking views the lake district has always been a firm favourite for the outdoor type. But in recent times Cumbria has quietly built a reputation as a first class foodie destination boasting the most Michelin star restaurants in a county outside London. We were keen to try the ambitious 1863 in Pooley Bridge proudly named after the date it was built. The modern version was welcoming and well furnished with plenty of interesting memorabilia to browse between courses. The 7 course tasting menu started with the regular amuse bouche, tasty but not stunning and there was a suprise glass of bubbles with the wine pairing. The opening venison tartare was splendid, packed in flavour with a welcome hazelnut texture contrast. All courses were excellent but the star of the show was undoubtedly the Creedy Carver duck, perfectly cooked, well seasoned, a crispy skin and accompanied with duck leg wrapped in savoy cabbage and pumpkin seeds. The wine pairings were well matched although the Rioja Blanco, with the halibut; was perhaps slightly over woody for my pallet. If there was one criticism the sommelier needs some work, particularly if there is ambition to join the Cumbrian elite with a star. The closing expresso was weak and my Balvenie 12 was wrecklessly delivered with a lump of ice but overall an enjoyable fine dining experience and well recommended."

La Casita

➤ 9 Queen Street, Penrith I-CA11 7XF, United Kingdom

Carte • Sushi • Pizza • Cafés • Asiatic

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"Service was great, place was lovely but really disappointed in the food. The ingredients were clearly good quality but there was no zing, seasoning was absent. Options on the menu read really well innovative and interesting but the cooking was a million miles away from the good quality meals we have enjoyed in Spain. The belly pork was chewy, not slow cooked and rendered, the zarzuela was acceptable. I didnt have any fried options and that might have made a difference. All the plates came out at the same time rather than in a trickle. If I had had the four tapas option midweek then I might have been happy but at full price this was a miss. I will give it another chance but at the moment its not a go to place. Vegetarian options: Actually thought the vegi options were quite good considering."

Four & Twenty

➤ 42 King Street Penrith, Cumbria CA11 7AY, United Kingdom

Carte • Kebab • Seafood • Mexican • Fast Food

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"The best meal for our 4-day trip in Lake District. First of all, we received a very warm (on a wet and chilly day) and friendly welcome. The 2-course lunch menu we had was approaching fine dining quality but cost only 23 GBP. You may have a 3-course menu (starter, main and dessert) at 3 GBP more. That is absolutely value for money. This is a casual bistro style restaurant which also offers wine pairing. The recommended wines seemed to be very solid and reasonably priced. Too bad I could not taste any of them as I had to drive back to Glasgow after lunch. Overall, an ideal place to stop over for a meal if you pass by Penrith on your way to or back from the Lake District."

The Lemon Tree Cafe Bistro

➤ Devonshire Arcade, CA11 7SX, Eden, United Kingdom

Carte • Cafe • Steak • Coffee • Cheese

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"Stopped off here for lunch on way home to Scotland, having good memories of this cafe from a visit several years ago. We were glad to find that it was still open and serving a wide variety of meal and snack options including lots of gluten free choices which pleased my husband who has coeliac disease. Fresh home-made food at excellent prices, and licensed too!"