"I have given a couple of very good restaurants five stars while reviewing them on TripAdvisor. Unfortunately, that left me without extra stars for the restaurant in which I have had the single most perfect meal of my life.We have a house about 20 minutes from Aux Quatre Saisons, and had passed it several times. About a month ago, knowing a friend from the US who is a gourmet cook and owns a specialty cheese spread company serving high-end venues was coming to visit, I cast about for places that would appeal to her. I then noted that a couple of my local Facebook friends had recommended this restaurant (which also offers lodging).So, we booked it. It offers both a dining room and terrace dining, but in our online booking, we did not specify. We thought we'd leave it up to fate and see what happened. What did happen? One of the owners, Val, greeted us as we walked up from the car park and said she had set our table on the terrace if that was all right. Yes, it was. It was a lovely evening, and sitting under the wisteria that covered the verandah was perfect. There was just enough breeze for total comfort. Plus, it was so charming. The three of us--me, my husband, and my friend whom I don't see nearly often enough--settled in just sort of knowing it would be a very special evening. Val left the menus and the wine list. A quick look at both convinced me this was the night to splurge on a very special bottle of red wine. The one we chose, at the high end of the wine list, was excellent. Complex. Lovely tannins but just fruity enough for the beef dish my friend and I each ordered, and the pork dish my husband chose.The wine was presented. Then the chef--the other owner--came and decanted it into a lovely ship's decanter so that it would be perfect when our meals arrived.Two of us chose a warm goat's cheese stater. One of us had a salmon and prawn starter.But the deliciousness began before those arrived. A platter with six Comte gougeres was set on the table. Fresh from the oven, the little choux pastry puffs were warm and delectable. How nice, we all thought, as nothing had been said about an amuse bouche on the menu.Not long after we had finished those, a platter with six blinis topped with salmon, prawn and caviar arrived. Does life get any better? I'll take delicious surprises like that any time.Then our starters arrived, and they were excellent. We poured a little wine to accompany them.And then, another amuse bouche before the entrees, a small cup of cold cucumber, pea and mint soup. I don't believe I've ever met a cold soup I didn't like, but this one was masterful. And so perfect for a summer evening.And then the entrees. I won't bore you. Suffice it to say that they completely upheld the impression we had all formed that not only was this a charming, comfortable and generous restaurant, but that the cooking, by Chef Paul, was world class. Between the three of us, we've dined on every continent except the Arctic and Antarctica.I will, however, bore you with the cheese trolley. It was a wonder. It had several goats' cheeses, one very fresh, one a goats cheese bleu (very rare) and one finished with calvados. My favourite cheese, St. Nectaire, at the perfect moment of ripeness. A cheese that Chef Paul called Seven Cows...because the tiny local farm that produces it does so from only seven cows..was also tangy and very fine. The cheeses were served with a glass of port. We were all ecstatic. It is so rare to find that perfect combination not only available but offered as part of the service. And we all like port.We hadn't finished yet. But we had. We were all pleasantly full and didn't want to move it into glutton territory...so we passed on desserts. But we did listen to the evening's list for future reference. The classics, creme brulee and chocolate mousse were generally available most evenings. That night there was also a fruit tarte, and I think a frozen confection...anyway, three or four more, all sounding delicious.We all made a vow. Maybe we will have only ONE bit of cheese next time to save room for dessert. And there will be a next time; my husband and I are thinking at least once a month as long as we are in France, or maybe more. Because, for all this excellence and a bottle of wine that cost about a third more than we ordinarily spend, the bill was incredibly reasonable. I case you're wondering, both the astonishing cheeses AND dessert were included in thermenu range we choose (there are three price levels), as well as the first and main coursesThe service was also excellent. How often does the chef explain and serve the cheeses he has chosen for his restaurant and offer a glass of port to ensure the whole experience is as it should be? I would venture to say only in small, charming Languedoc restaurants where the chef is not only a wonder when wearing the toque, but unusually, also when interacting with the guests."
