Téléphone: +496974745252
Adresse: Reuterweg 57, 60323 Frankfurt am Main, Germany
Ville: Frankfurt am Main
Menu Plats: 5
Avis: 3623
Site Web: http://www.restaurant-gustav.de/
"For a risk-adverse and relatively conservative restaurant town like Frankuft, GUSTAV is daring, avante-garde, even a bit difficult. Styled like a modern bistro with a relaxed, informal service team, the average diner does not realize how serious and solitary an experiment they are about to...experience in all its plenitude. Jochim Busch places in front of you plates laid out like a dense forest, every ingredient clinging to every other ingredient. On all sides of his plates you sense the pull of some inert natural form, tugging at the sides, like an abstract expressionist painting with deep contrasts and a complex structure. Watching him work the passe with his tweezers his flexible fingers he seems to be drawing his ingredients towards the edges, extending their advance towards each other. With his Passardian passion for unusual vegetables and his post-romantic use of underappreciated cuts of meat and fish, much of what he cooks is like a hypehenated vegetable-animal, but the supple clawings of his vegetarian dishes alone evoke also the supreme loveliness of the edible organic world, its fine capacity to touch and electrify humans. Over three or four dinners, and two or three lunches over the last years, his daring and original use of unusual fresh ingredients have reached out to me as few other restaurants of this genre in Germany can. Traditional dining standards will complicate the diners reception of this cooking. If you are foolish enough to expect convention you will eventually miss out on the joy of it. My advice: Go to GUSTAV with an open mind and appreciate this cook's exlusive concerns and experimentation in your innermost fibres. This is in the top of my favourite restaurants in Hessen, easily. The decor of the restaurant is the acme of good taste: the designers have turned this railroad-style apartment ground floor into a fluid space, a ribbon of style. Welcome to Nature's Experimental Laboratory."
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