Horváth Inh. Jeannine Kessler

"after a good start (old master and very good continuation (old customs house I was curious if the third slemmer evening would lead to an increase. after the paper form, the chances were good, because the horvàrth belongs with two michelin stars since 2016, 18 points and other high and highest marks to the top group of the capital. chef sebastian frank, who now runs the restaurant with his life mate jeannine keßler, is native Austrian and these roots can also be noted to the kitchen. the electronic reservation was unproblematic and the telephone demand was sympathetic. So I was looking forward to kreuzberg. the paul lincke ufer has developed into a gastro hotspot in recent years. along the canal, but also in the backyards you will find not only highly different kitchens, but also different price levels. in the horvàrth the current, rather cool gastrodesign with sophisticated lighting concepts has been denied. Instead, a lot of bright egg wood recalls a lively hospitality industry especially in the front part of the rather deep space. but without consecration, as far as I could see. a small flower decoration and a burning candle on every table. brightly tinted walls and light spots are however already of sufficient modernity. that the fine dinning “casual” is to go to, testify to the quite clearly covered tables. the cute harrte in a box on the table of self-service. something from the other frame the cream-colored high-backs, in which I once again felt (saturated to the table-edged level). of course I got a kiss on demand. “Of course” because the greeting by my hostess was so friendly, cordial and open that I felt like a hospitable guest from the first moment. the other colleague in the service was of the same slayer, even if he had my praise with a note that he could not otherwise, he was just Italian. I've seen other Italians. also the change from the intended table to a window place and thus into the fast-winding daylight for a few photos was no problem. later it became quite cumbersome at cercive and mainly indirect light; you will notice the pictures of the last passages. here in the front part, with slightly melancholic music, then the other guests of the evening were placed, 5 pairs and another single herr. whether this balling was due to the short due to the staff, despite the otherwise empty local, or if the communication between the feeders was to stimulate, remained open. It was not unpleasant, the conversations at the tables were not disturbing. especially since a little concentration on eating the pleasure of it increased. his kitchen is called “emancipatory” by sebastian frank. this could probably be the opposite of elitist, but it shows above all that all components are equal, so there are no supplements in the usual sense. thereby get a higher meaning, even if the horvàth is not a purely vegetarian restaurant. franks philosophie leads to visually unspectacular tellers and näpfen, in which not individual products are in the center, but the tasteful overall picture. there are only two menus available, 6 or 8 courses (120/140€). In the current card, the courses are reduced by one, the prices in the ratio are slightly raised. I decided to choose the small selection and asked for the fasting because of the dim on meat. the service at once regretted me, because so the pleasure of the blunzenbrotes escaped me. typical of the hospitality here was offered to me to take the bread and to freeze for the time off! also alcohol was a no go. but of course, a convincing promille-free guide is offered in the horvàth, which cost 10€ per glass. no financial difference to the wine journey by the way, which was explained with the labor-intensive production of most drinks in your own house. extract of the aperitif: alcohol-free secco of lay!( grape juice, in this case pure silvaner, who had an absolutely typical bukett for me and also brought clear acid. a high on the plumb weingut möckli from nußdorf near landau and immediately a second gläschen (summa 16€ . cutlery you take yourself out of a small wooden box, but for the first kitchen greeting the double-walled plexiglas cup was provided, in which a steaming hot tweebelsud with not needed by öcke and celery seeds was poured. 4 hours pulled, revealed on the hill an immensely deep game of sweet and spiciness, which remained present for a long time. Even if I had only a short walk through cross mountain behind me, the image of a warming broth on the hut immediately became alive after a long walk through the cold. with the amuse came also the first of the more common cärtchen to be found, which are so helpful for the detailed among us chronists. it followed a broth selection, unfortunately without the strong blood sausage variant. the roggensauerteigbrot with cumin was a good representative, but from the first bit I was the crispy fluffy longos covered with fine garlic salt. I couldn't change, later in the evening I had to successfully ask for more exemplars, which the kitchen naturally freshly ausbuk. salt butter with alpenian noble white embossing and a potato swamp with paprika were rustic companions, but at very high taste level. as another amuse bouche were served chips by linda kartoffeln with a sweet garlic crème. over it raspel from in the salt crust intensively fermented celery. that was, on the one hand, inflatable, salty, without ever tipping into the bitter. on the other hand, the inconceivably concise kartoffel flashed again and again in exchange with the serenely sweet sellerie aroma. I really have no problem with luxury products, but these supposed all-world ingredients have made me rapture. the first course started with an Austrian butter triezl! this, thought for all guests, was cut on my table for the evening and gave me such a heavenly fragrant, still warm disc, which accompanied the melting faux gras, obtained from cervical side. for contrast ensured apfelbalsam reduction from david gölles. I was still so excited about my brot and the marillenkernöl butter that I actually forgot a photo of this “Pilzleber”. in glass earthy yellow bete juice with some pumpkin seed oil. the next gang was with all understatement only mixed salad. brutally fresh raw vegetables, radishes, green-saving fine stripes of leaf salads and crusts in a cast vegetable oil, from which a tempting fruity spring scent originated. citrus fruits put fresh accents while roasting and keeping the basic of the smoked. super balanced variants and difficult to impressive, because the crisp fresh texture remained chewing even at the fortieth. the alcohol-free pairing, it should have been the petersilien root milk, was very viscous, almost like a dressing. I felt the drink too sweet and also too powerful to the fresh turbo on the teller. after this wimmelbild the next teller stood for almost puristic reduction. an excellently grilled tranche salmon trout, which impressed in the nose and on the palate equally. a large piece of rhabarber announced as “salted compote” and a nock haseluss anchovis paste with very authentic fish taste (in the most positive sense! lost a little bit on the teller. first, when a molecular was poured into the house, namely reddish-moist reduction with dark chocolate, a more harmonious image was obtained visually. tastefully, there was a lot of things going on here with few players, because the fruity acid of the rhabarber countered the earthly sweet of the molecular. the delicate, medium-strength fish banded these opponents again and again. true highlight was, however, the accompanying radicchio juice with mandel lemon oil, which reminded of grapefruit from the outside, but could much more on the palate: acid, bitter notes, sweet, complexity, which I had hardly ever spoken to a sweet juice before, and at the same time ground for a surprising critique. so fantastic that was guided, it made the rhabarber on the teller completely superfluous! on the next dish varied the kitchen skillfully celery. baked, first sweet, then salty developing, as a salad, marinated with leindotter oil and processed with apfel to a fresh sauce. the corresponded with a crème that remembers nutella not only visually but also the nussy mouth feeling, which was deptified as a pumpkin seed oil vanille paste. that was already challenging, especially since the marinated discs were still awkward to chew and therefore were too grossly insane to me. the celery and the fungal liver of the menu opening are lifted in the card as “Siganture dishes” (original writing by sebastian frank). the following court came without the little memory support therefore. perhaps because the juvenile fercle was replaced by a buttrig brown roasted disc which was settled in the resistance between toast and polenta and remained quite brav tastefully. great, however, the iced pusztasalate of green tomaten and chili offered separately on a probier spoon. both would certainly have been better suited to the black, the purely vegetarian variants did not fully convince. phenomenal again the alcohol-free lead. Molke with crispy, honey and leindotter oil matched the strong and sharp aromen great. the last floor closed the arch to the kartoffel of the amuse. here, however, cooked bamberger audibs with smoked vinegar kohlrabi, which provided for the bite and brought along a pleasant acid. a sauce made of acidic cream and cumin, to carrots both classic. the powder of dried stone mushrooms for my taste, however, too weak. also here convinced the pairing. juice from granny smith and from gala, clarified at 80 degrees, was pollinated with a nutwood hydrolat that spreads the smell of old wood furniture, but still amazingly fits well into the smelly world of the teller and put me into a wood hut on the lake. the dessert on dessert is always the easiest thing for me to fast. but with the little bite, it was over with self-discipline, especially since it was not only sweet here: white chocolate with petersil oil and candied pumpkin seeds in an edible gaze impressed with crinkled nuances and fine crunch. a kulinar not quite simple evening, which certainly did not bring alpenian soul food in the sprawling sense. Here a concentrated retrospective was offered on products of the rural cuisine, which triggered several times an aha effect: yes, so it must taste! not plump or exhausting, but always harmonious. exciting and in the best sense to think. and for the soul warmth the super service is responsible."